In the April issue of BORIGO the great reds of 2017 were in focus. Two of our wines performed remarkably: Solus and Kopar received 94 points and Ördögárok Villányi Franc got 93 on the test of the magazine. We were curious that what is the opinion of the general editor – Gábor Botond Bányai – about this vintage and our wines.
Regarding to Hungary and Villány what is your impression about this year?
In our opinion the 2017 vintage is the best vintage in the whole (on blind tests too) since 1990. This is not only because of the weather but the wine makers with more serious knowledge. BORIGO makes vintage chart for 17 years in the 10pts system. 2017 naturally received the maximum. Villány performs on all of these vintage evaluation tests excellently due to the sub-mediterranean climate and the remarkably high viticulture. There are several good winery in the wine region and they do not accept medium. So far we never gave 95 points to Hungarian red wine. And before this we gave 94 points cca. 5 times. From 2017 six 94 points were given and among these two went to Gere Attila Winery.
Kopar, Solus and Villányi Franc Ördögárok 2017 received all high points from you. Professionally what caught you in them the most?
We at BORIGO always look for balance, tightness or modernity, elegance.These wines maximally fulfilled these requirements. Their barrel ageing is very fine but characteristic. All the three can be approached even now but a very long life awaits them.
We are happy that you follow the wines of the winery for a long time. What is your impression about our wines?
So long time ago that a 1992 vintage Gere Cabernet Sauvignon launched me on collecting wines and then this collecting developed to wine competence. Gere wines were among the best in all period of the past 30 years and developed continuously mainly in the aspect of the mentioned barrel ageing and modernity.
The professional tasting of great red wines is not the easiest task. Can you give few hints for the wine lovers what to pay attention for?
The most important is not to look for the very thick, oily, high alcohol, tannin rich wines. The ideal alcohol level for a great red wine is around 14 % – the body is given but fruits also stay. The barrel must be tasted fine, almost appearing. It is worth to taste a great red wine many times during its life: first when it is cca. 4 years old, then every few years, until 20. It is very interesting that the Villányi reds from the beginning of 2000’s that I tasted today still keep themselves nicely causing a serious experience. Though the knowledge and viticulture (for example the vines and their age) that time were light year far from the present possibilities. In my opinion a 2017 vintage red wine from Villány can cause experience even in 2050.
For the several decades of mutual work not only we are grateful but our wine maker acquaintances too. So it is important for us that You received the “Friend of the Wine Makers” award. Is it determining why you go on with wine journalism for decades? What is your favourite moment in it?
I adore doing it. Tasting, interview making, editing the newspaper all extremely creative work gives huge joy. And great joy to meet the wine makers day by day, week by week and talk – the introduction of the June issue of BORIGO will be about this too. It is fact that on the economical side it is a nice “salto mortale” to issue a wine magazine but the routine is given for this too. The award is a great honour for me. 17 years ago when I started I wouldn’t imagine that we get to this point with the newspaper. And I have to mention the staff of the paper because the award is also goes for them.
