In 2004 we got 7 ancient Hungarian varieties from the a Viticulture and Oenology Research Institute of the University of Pécs. These were: bakator, balafánt, purcsin, feketefájú bajor, kékbajor, csókaszőlő, and fekete járdovány. As an experiment first we planted 2-2 rows of each next to the main building of the winery.
Because we could not taste these in the research institute as wine, and because of the small quantity no unique wine was made from each of them, we mainly concluded after the bunch character and the resistance to diseases which will be finally the appropriate choice. It was an amazing experience. Csókaszőlő and járdovány were the two finalist, finally we chose fekete járdovány. It can be found in Ördögárok and Csillagvölgy-slopes, but we continuously plant it because it made good!
It is not such a variety on which the “typical from Villány” marker can be applied. It is much more filigrane, spicy, fruity wine, with more acid than alcohol or tannin. If I would like to compare it to other varieties then I can say that it is like the pinot noir-kadarka-kékfrankos style. Only few know fekete járdovány, even more most of them think, that it is only a fantasy name on the label. But no, this is the name of the variety.
The first vintage was 2009. It likes the colder years more, when fruitiness dominates in it. Weather strengthen the own character of the variety. In hotter years its spiciness is not so obvious, and then the characteristics of the wine region come into prominence.
We age it for 10-12 months (according to the vintage) in 2nd filled, big 300-500 liter size barrels. Our aim is, to keep its fruitiness, playfulness and that multicolor, vibrant spiciness why we really love this variety. So far we do not have too much bottles of it, so it can be purchased and tested in Villány at us, in DiVino wine bars and in from our webshop.
Andrea Gere
